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Life on the River
Many Deltans retreat to weekend getaways on the Mississippi River. Here’s a look at three.

BY LYNN LAFOE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHARLIE GODBOLD

Ever since Hernando de Soto discovered the Mississippi River in 1541, the people who inhabit the area have been lured to its banks for inspiration, recreation or just for a chance to slip away from the confines of civilization for a while. The dwellings they have built along the water's edge reveal much about these adventurous men and women, and the lifestyle they love. Each home is unique, designed especially to fit the needs of the owner in his quest for the perfect haven where he can hunt and fish, or just enjoy nature.

Rives and Jennie Neblett of Clarksdale love to spend time at their riverfront property between the private Concordia Rod and Gun Club and Donaldson Point hunting club owned by Anderson-Tully Timber Company at a point on the river just out from Shelby.

They say their style of river living has undergone a complete evolution during their years together.
"Fifteen years ago when we came to the river, we camped in a pup tent and used logs to build our fire," says Rives with a nostalgic look in his eye. "Then, we got a bigger tent and a Coleman stove and we were really first class," the farmer/lawyer adds with a chuckle.
A little more than a year ago, the Nebletts evolved into a new phase of river life. They now have a roof over their heads when they spend time on the river. Jennie calls it her "dollhouse," and the name seems to fit. Nestled among the trees at the water's edge with no neighbors in sight, the cabin is the perfect setup for the nature-loving couple.

"It's called a Wilderness Cabin," says Rives. He was so excited when he discovered the cabins in Lexington, MS where they are manufactured, that he called his wife immediately and bought one on the spot. It was pulled to the site by truck. About the size of a small mobile home, the Neblett’s Wilderness Cabin is sided in cypress with a spacious front porch, and it fits neatly among the large old cottonwood and willow trees that cradle it on the riverbank.

Rives is quick to admit that his wife has been a real trooper when it comes to sharing his love for "roughing it."


"She comes out here and camps with me, then heads to Memphis to be the queen of the Cotton Carnival," he jokes. "She loves to bathe in the river and even washes her hair out there."
Jennie, who actually was queen of the Memphis Cotton Carnival in 1975, enjoys interior decorating and wasted no time working her magic to make the new cabin comfortable and attractive.

"As soon as they set it down, Jennie started decorating," Rives says.
She began by faux painting everything–the walls, cabinets and even the refrigerator–with Rives' help.


"We started doing this together and that's always a mistake," Jennie says. "We got as far as the bathroom and just had to stop."
But nobody's complaining. The cabin is perfect for the Nebletts, their 12-year-old son Thomas and friends who come to hunt and fish, cook up the game they kill and enjoy a meal at the water's edge. With a futon in the living room and a double bed in the one bedroom, they can easily accommodate four adults overnight, and the loft offers sleeping quarters for a number of children.
"I think we really appreciate the smallness, the simplicity of it, right now. We'll probably build some day, but for now this is just right for us," Jennie says.
All three Nebletts love to hunt and fish, and the cabin is their headquarters throughout the hunting season. Many trophies of their successes decorate the walls, along with paintings by local artists. Jennie enjoys creating natural arrangements, both inside and out, using items she finds nearby.
"I love to make arrangements using nature–flowers and other decorative things I find in the woods," Jennie says.
She has also been known to throw elegant dinner parties, complete with linens, fine china and crystal, all served from a table set up on the nearby rock dike extending into the Mississippi River. "Once my centerpiece was a river with live minnows swimming in it. I'm just a crazy artist!" Jennie says laughing.

The Lewis' river home

On the opposite end of the spectrum from the Neblett’s cabin is the river home of their Clarksdale neighbors, Pauline and Mike Lewis. Located at Miller Point Rod and Gun Club near Stovall, the Lewis' home is built in the West Indies style of architecture. It overlooks Old River, the horseshoe lake formed by a natural cutoff, which occurred in 1848 when the river changed its course.
Just far enough away from town, but not too far, the Lewis' riverside retreat is a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of city living. "It only takes 20 minutes to get here," says Pauline, who along with her husband practices law in Clarksdale. Their son, Talmadge, is only 11 months old and is just beginning to learn about living on the river.

Architect John Jones of Memphis designed the house with plenty of input from the owners. The raised West Indies design, which is also popular in southern Louisiana, features wide steps ascending in both front and back to the gallery, or covered porch, that encircles the house. Beauvoir, the home of Jefferson Davis on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, is one of the more famous houses built in this style.
"At the age of 12, I visited Jefferson Davis' home and I thought it was the ideal design for a house on the water," says Mike. "Although I didn't know it until we started planning to build, Pauline had made that same decision, too."
To take a closer look at houses in this style, Pauline and Mike traveled to south Louisiana to visit Parlange, the home of Mr. and Mrs. Walter Charles Parlange in Pointe Coupee Parish. They were so impressed with the circa 1750 home that they incorporated a unique octagonal pigeonnaier, similar to the ones that flank the entrance to Parlange, as part of their design. Their pigeonnaier serves a useful function and, rather than a home for the pigeons, hides the water supply system for the house.
Inside, Pauline and Mike have created an elegant, yet comfortable, living area with large windows, vaulted ceilings and hardwood floors throughout the central great room.
"We designed the interior to bring everybody together in this one big room with smaller rooms radiating from it," says Pauline. "We started with a decorator, and then just did our own thing."
Both Pauline and Mike enjoy hunting and their trophy mounts played a major part when they started decorating the house. The furnishings are an eclectic mix of their special treasures, including French tapestries and antiques, along with paintings from street artists in Paris, one of their favorite places to visit. An antique Chinese trunk and Oriental altar are paired with a French armoire in one bedroom, and the baby's room is furnished with animal print pieces.
The central room combines a contemporary curved sofa in front of the large fireplace, with an antique sideboard by Jean-Francois Leleu (1729-1807) and a long custom-made dining table that seats 12. A sensational sound system and large screen television are essential additions for entertaining. There's also a game room, complete with pool table and chessboard.
You might not expect to see a Baldwin piano in a house on the river, but there it is, centered along the back wall with the river as a backdrop through the open windows. An electronic player device allows every guest to become an instant pianist, and is especially popular at Christmas parties. The Lewises enjoy entertaining and often cook dinners for friends in their complete Viking kitchen. With three bedrooms on the main floor and another upstairs, Pauline and Mike often invite guests to spend a night or a week, especially during hunting season. Hospitality among hunters is a way of life along the river.
"The hunting club culture that takes place on the unprotected side of the levee is really a unique thing," says Mike. "This is like the land that time forgot. There's no agriculture here, and the occasional timbering is the only change since de Soto discovered the Mississippi River somewhere near this point on the river. We still have abundant wildlife–deer, ducks, raccoons, opossums, and even a bear sighting now and then."


The Almands

Rustic is the word that Genie Almand uses to describe the house she and her husband Jeff, an orthopedic surgeon, completed last July at Catfish Point on the Mississippi River near Scott.
"We wanted it to be rustic, since our home in Leland is not," Genie explains. The raised A-shaped front of the house features huge hand-hewn beams and a sprinkling of cedar shake to achieve that rustic look. Bricks hide the work area underneath, so the house appears to sit on a foundation.

The Almands did not use an architect because they knew the type of house they wanted to build, and Genie's artistic talents came in handy when they were ready to put their ideas on paper. "Whenever we rode somewhere in the car together, I would sketch the house and different floor plans," she says.

Greenville builder Steve Ramsey translated the final plans into an inviting and cozy home-away-from-home. The house took a year to build and was finished in July 2002. The Almands searched for first-class raw materials and managed to buy heart pine from a Coca-Cola plant being torn down in Atlanta, as well as the huge beams which came from an old barn in upstate Pennsylvania.

"We wanted to use the heart pine and old beams to give it the feel of the mountains in North Carolina where my family lives," Genie says.

"We had everything trucked in right to the site with no trouble." The floors, walls and ceilings, as well as the window casings and trim are all constructed from pine. Knotty pine was used for the ceilings to give a more "raw" look, Genie says. The front screened porch also sports a touch of the mountains with 10 rocking chairs made in Black Mountain, N.C.

Jeff's antique decoy collection is displayed in the living room where the brick chimney rises to the second floor ceiling. The walls and rafters of the open living area are lined with a menagerie of mounted creatures that once roamed the area. The usual ducks and deer are joined by a huge hog (wild boar) head, a goose, a raccoon whose paw hangs delicately over the edge of a lofty beam and even a mink resting on a nearby table.

The small, but efficient kitchen boasts an old porcelain sink the Almands salvaged from the defunct Leland Oil Mill which they now own, and two more similar sinks were installed along the far wall of the great room for additional game cleaning and in the mud room at the back. An old barn table and a wagon wheel light fixture were also purchased in North Carolina to carry out the rustic theme.

Genie and Jeff, along with their daughters Mari Liza, 6, and Anna Douglas, 4, are happy to open their home to family and friends who come to hunt, fish and enjoy the outdoors. A new ski boat offers the promise of fun-filled days on the water in nearby Lake Whittington this summer, and early morning fishing trips with Dad are always a favorite adventure for the two girls. Although Genie doesn't much like to get out on the river, she enjoys walking and jogging along the paths at the camp. She also takes advantage of the beautiful scenery as she pursues her passion for painting.

"It's so peaceful here. We love listening to the birds and watching the deer that come right up to the back yard in the evening," Genie says.

The Almands plan to use their river house as a gathering place for their extended family year round through the hunting seasons and especially during the Christmas holidays. The house sleeps 16 to 20 people with five bedrooms, including one long bunkroom for the younger set.
Life on the river just doesn't get any better.

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