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Lee
and Pup McCarty |
Through
the Bamboo
Lee & Pup McCarty’s Delta Oasis
By
Lana Lawrence Draper
Folks who were raised in small Delta towns are used
to giving geographical landmarks as means of direction.
When asked where a certain town or place is, a common
response might often be “It’s not too
far fromGreenville, up 61” or “Go one
hundred miles south of Memphis and try not to blink.”
Interestingly enough, one particular Delta locale
never needed such point of reference. The mere mention
of the town Merigold would elicit the immediate response
of, “Oh…McCartys!” It’s for
good reason that Merigold and McCarty's ring synonymously
in the minds of many Mississippians. A world-renowned
pottery business started in 1954 would quietly put
this tiny town of 600 on the map, as a unique and
thoroughly-Delta landmark.
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Lee
and Pup McCarty met as college students at Delta State
University, Lee having received an earlier undergraduate
degree from the University of Mississippi. After Lee
completed his master’s degree in education from
Columbia University, the couple returned to Ole Miss
where Lee taught for several years. During this time
they developed their love of pottery-making and first
began experimenting with natural Mississippi clay
from a pit on William Faulkner’s property in
Oxford. Soon their work became an avocation and a
permanent place was needed for their studio and kilns.
Lee McCarty grew up in Merigold during the days when
cotton was still king and several plantations were
headquartered there. A thriving downtown business
district was flanked by the Illinois Central railroad
tracks. Two blocks away stood a mule barn owned by
Albert Smith.
“When we came back to Merigold, we needed a
place to live and set up our studio, and Aunt Margaret
offered us Uncle Albert’s mule barn and lot,”
he recalls.
Although it might have been an unlikely new home and
pottery studio to the unimaginative eye, the McCartys
could see its potential. The animals were moved out
and the transformation began.
“We built all this from one nail up,”
says Lee. “We insulated with cardboard those
first years, sweated in the summer and froze in the
winter. I remember us having to bust ice off the clay
and thaw it to throw. The bricks for the first terrace
Pup laid all by herself with just one helper.”
The walls around this first terrace hold a special
place in Pup’s heart. “The cypress boards
came from the Wooten plantation outside Shelby,”
she recollects. “They were tearing down the
tenant houses and we needed the boards. The Wootens
are old and dear friends and we always think of them
when we look out at this terrace. Now their grandchildren
are coming here too and keeping up our family friendship.”
Today “The Barn” is still home and studio
to the McCartys. Cypress walls and stands of bamboo
border the terraced gardens, creating a world apart
from the rush and hustle of day-to-day life. Walking
through the lush greenery, one can sense the feeling
of ease and calm — the muse, if you will —
that gives this place its unique character. It is
a sort of sanctuary where the individualistic spirit
of the Delta is manifested and the old, soft Delta
accents can be faintly heard.
During a recent return to McCarty’s, as I passed
from the blinding mid-morning sunlight into the deep
shade of the bamboo tunnel that is the only evidence
of an entrance to the studio, I was struck by how
little had changed since I first visited over forty
years ago. As a little girl, I remember being mesmerized
by the sight of “Mr. McCarty” behind the
potter’s wheel. I watched as he skillfully shaped
undulating forms into bowls, candleholders or vases.
While working, he would speak of people and times
gone by to customers, friends or little girls such
as I, whose curiosity got the better of them. I recall
slipping out of the shop, through the French doors,
and into the gardens, shrouded in cypress fencing
and dappled with soft light that pierced its way through
the trees. Fountains splashed. Birds sang. It was
magical then, and it is magical now.
The McCartys still fashion their work from Mississippi
clay. Beginning with just that raw basic element,
through their imagination and skill, it is transformed
into works of beauty—sometimes functional, sometimes
whimsical — replete a simple elegance that is
uniquely McCarty. Collectors throughout the country
and around the world cherish McCarty pottery. The
work has even made its way to the Smithsonian Museum.
During my visit to “The Barn,” I realized
that what brings the throngs of collectors and friends
to visit McCarty Pottery isn’t just the beauty
of the pottery or the inviting gardens; it is the
McCartys themselves. They welcome their guests with
what I can only describe as “Delta warmth.”
As we left the studio already crowded with shoppers
for a walk through the gardens, Lee told how Pup,
who hailed from the hills of Mississippi, designed
the terraced gardens as a release from the flat Delta
landscape. According to Lee, Pup is the one with a
creative eye in the garden who oversees the pruning
of the trees and all of their construction projects.
“I married up!” he declares.
An author once called Lee McCarty “one of the
last of the true renaissance men.” A scholar,
a teacher, a botanist, a physicist, and a chemist,
he brings all those skills to bear on his art. He
is also an accomplished musician, skilled on both
piano and guitar. While Lee can play almost anything
on the piano, he likes to entertain guests with ballads
from the ‘40s or boisterous show tunes. When
he picks up his guitar, Lee prefers playing Spanish
classical music but if pressed can show intrigued
visitors how to use a glass bottleneck to get that
unique Delta Blues sound.
While Lee is the consummate entertainer and storyteller,
Pup is a most gracious hostess. She is able to make
a guest instantly at ease and feel as if part of the
family. Her extensive knowledge of art and artistic
styles is readily apparent just by observing the couple’s
surroundings.
During the early years, the McCartys would travel
on extended forays into Mexico and points south. Thanks
to these trips they have an extensive collection of
primitive, pre-Columbian pottery and art. Later they
would travel the globe, expanding their personal horizons
to Europe and the Orient. By exposing themselves to
a large variety of cultures, specifically to the art
of those cultures, the McCartys improved both their
own art and their surroundings.
Today, both the Pottery Studio and The Gallery are
a family affair. Joining Lee and Pup’s business
in 1998 were godsons Jamie and Stephen Smith, both
Merigold natives, the sons of Stephanie Smith and
the late James R. Smith, III. Although Lee and Pup
are still responsible for the creative aspects of
the business, development of new designs and overall
quality control, Jamie and Stephen are lending their
expertise to the business and organizational functions
of the family ventures. Two-year-old Sarah Bennett
Smith, daughter of Jamie and Jenny Smith, represents
a new generation of the McCarty family and is making
her own mark on the garden landscape and in the hearts
of her adoring parents and “grandparents.”
As we walked through the gardens, Lee embarked on
a running narrative, relating tales and the history
of the McCarty grounds. “Now these Iris Cristata
came from Jane Rule’s garden in Ruleville,”
Lee points out. “This is a brown turkey fig.
Jamie and Stephen’s grandfather had one planted
at every tenant house on his place.” He spoke
fondly about Aunt Mary Eslander and her boarding house
where tea was served every afternoon, the big fig
tree from Thomas Jefferson’s garden (that makes
the best preserves), the crepe myrtles that once had
bordered the mule lot, and shallots that came from
Pup’s family home in Ethel. The stories were
enchanting and endless.
The McCartys’ gardens are more than just a collection
of various botanicals. They are the gardens of family
and friends. Every plant, every tree, and even the
gristmill (where Lee once sacked corn for Uncle Albert
for two bits a Saturday and which now forms the base
of a striking fountain) are a part of the living history
of Merigold. Lee and Pup McCarty’s gardens are
personal and that fact is the source of the mystique
that envelops those who visit, leaving them comforted
knowing there is still a place where the gentle Delta
spirit is alive and well.
On that day in the garden, other visitors joined and
listened attentively as Lee swapped “do you
remembers” and “did you knows” while
he continued the guided tour. All too soon, Pup appeared
to remind us that it was time for Lee’s lunch
and traditional afternoon nap. I left wondering how
many other stories were still untold and vowed to
come back to hear more.
Stephen and Jamie Smith, who were raised in the McCarty
home, talk about what prompted them to move back to
Mississippi and help run the McCarty business. Jamie
Smith had been most recently working in Atlanta and
Birmingham in sales and sales management in information
technology.
“What drew me home was the lifestyle that you
can have in a small Delta town, and that you can have
as a potter,” says Jamie. “It’s
an independent way of life. You have to understand
I was constantly around Uncle Lee and Aunt Pup growing
up. I got to play in the clay, and we learned to swim
in this pool. My mother still has a number of my very
first pottery pieces that I threw way back then,”
he recalls.
Pup says she remembers allowing Jamie to have a 30-pound
block of clay when he was eight or nine years old.
“He pounded the clay into something that was
supposed to be Moby Dick,” she laughs. “We
were all amazed that it actually made it through the
firings.” Pup also credits Jamie for the inspiration
for the McCarty hippos. “When Jamie was young,
he was fascinated by big animals, whales, dinosaurs
and especially hippos. He kept on and on about hippos
and so we designed our own versions in the late 1960’s
and made them for many years.”
Jamie says Lee taught him about throwing pots in the
studio. “He’d look over my shoulder and
correct my stance or grip. Throwing pots, firing them
and seeing the end result was a great deal of fun
for me. Keep in mind, it’s also very hard physical
work but when you love it, it becomes more fun than
work. This kind of work, this lifestyle and the kind
of life you can have in a small town versus a big
city appealed to me. So when I was asked to come home,
I jumped at the chance,” Jamie says.
Stephen Smith was a lawyer in Athens, Georgia for
a number of years before he made the move back to
Merigold shortly after his brother did. “Uncle
Lee lives life on his own terms,” says Stephen.
“That is something to admire and emulate, if
possible. What appealed to me is the quality of life
created by being in our family business and by living
in my hometown. My brother and I are the fourth generation
of our family to be in Merigold. It is so rare today
to find generations of a family in the same town,
and I realize how lucky we are to have this opportunity.
I would much rather watch my niece play tea party
with ‘Unk’ and Aunt Pup than to try a
case or take a deposition any day of the week."
Jamie says that through it all, he and Stephen learned
from the McCarty’s how to live life to the fullest.
“I think we gained an appreciation for the arts
from Lee and Pup and our mother. We certainly learned
from example about a good work ethic and perseverance,”
he continues, “but at the same time we see how
important it is to take time to spend with family
and friends. Work hard, play hard, you could say!”
The work ethic of the McCartys has been recognized
by many. In the late 1990s, the Japanese government
invited them to exhibit in Tokyo. More recently, famed
Mississippi artist Bill Dunlap said they had “the
work ethic of immigrants” when he spoke at the
presentation to the McCartys of the Lifetime Achievement
Award by the Mississippi Institute of Arts and Letters.
That same year, the University of Mississippi Museum
paid homage to the McCarty’s with a three-week
exhibit, “Masters of Merigold: 40 years of McCarty
Pottery.” The fusion of their expertise, experiences
and skill has resulted in something uniquely Delta
— uniquely Mississippi and internationally acclaimed.
The McCarty’s also own a restaurant in Merigold,
which is a perfect compliment to their lifestyle and
to the charm of their surroundings. Enclosed by the
signature McCarty cypress wall, The Gallery is a hidden
treasure that bears the same charming, simple elegance
that its founders first created in the pottery studio
and gardens. Open only for lunch, The Gallery offers
two entrees daily, a cold and a hot dish, each with
an appetizer course, two vegetables and a dessert.
One of Lee’s grand pianos graces the corner
of the dining room while pieces from the McCarty’s
personal art collection from around the world lend
an international flare. The food is expertly prepared
and served on McCarty pottery. Many dishes use fresh
herbs and vegetables picked from the McCarty’s
own garden.
While no signs lead to the McCarty Studio or The Gallery
restaurant, people from across the country and around
the world travel to the quaint town of Merigold and
find their way to this Delta icon. You might come
to the McCarty’s to buy pottery, but you will
leave knowing that they offer much more than a beautifully
crafted piece of clay. When the world is too much
around you, and you wish you could go back to a simpler
time and remember gentle voices from your childhood,
the gardens are waiting and the McCarty’s will
welcome you as you come through the bamboo and into
their Delta oasis.
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